Yesterday we had lunch with a really nice family in the village. What a great experience to push past the tourist places by the beach and interact with local families. Marcus is getting pretty good at communicating in Spanish, and we talked about fishing, sharks, families and food.
Marcus met Lucio Jr, a cross between a Mario Brothers character and Freddie Mercury. When asked where the best fish tacos in town were to be had, like a good son, he said “Mi Mama!” So we arrived as paying guests, not sure what to expect.
In the kitchen was Maria and her sister, cooking up a storm on a modern 6 burner gas stove. They were frying fish and there were huge bowls of ensalada, and rice. I asked Maria if she were cooking for 20 people, there was so much food, she nodded with a big smile.
There were family members coming and going, and I couldn’t keep track of everyone. Food started appearing on the table, and Lucio Sr., Marcus and I and one of the daughters started eating. The fish kept frying, and Maria would replenish the platters of food. As the meal went on more family members would show up. Someone would come in and someone else would finish and get up to clear a space for them to eat. I’m not sure it was 20 people, but it was a lot!
Lucio Sr. came in and Lucio Jr. showed us a picture of him as an abalone diver in his younger days, and the 3 “guapo” men posed for a picture with sharks jaws.
It was so fun to see the family interaction, it seems the same all over the world. Brothers teasing sisters, daughters fluffing up Mom’s hair for the pictures. Eating, laughing and talking. This is the Mexico we wanted to experience.
PS formatting a memory card apparently erases all photographs. Major bummer
Thursday, December 30, 2010
Wednesday, December 29, 2010
Catching up from before
Christmas dinner at Cedros
Seaweed at Isla San Martin
12/28/2010
Turtle Bay is not quite as we remembered it. Last time we were here was during the Baha Haha in which 150 or more sailboats descend on this sleepy little fishing village. No paved roads, but here as well, it seems everyone has a car.
It was a busy place and we scoured every little market for fresh vegetables or “greenies” as our friend Joanne called them. Businesses were booming and the 3 (that I know of) restaurants are hopping. I believe the fish tacos were $2.50 with a plate of beans.
This time it is a sleepy little town again, and there is only one restaurant open. I ask for a menu, and the least expensive thing on it is 65 pesos, which is almost $6.50 YIKES This is Mexico? Where are the $2.50 fish tacos? Apparently gone with the Haha.
I was also under the impression that showers could be had for $2. I was really needing a shower by now and the quoted price of $3.50 felt high, but oh well. Then we realized we had forgotten our towels, oh, “no problema”. So our total shower cost was $8. , because towels are extra. Well, lessons learned, but it was really nice to be clean.
We have been using a lot of water and I have been puzzled because I thought I was conserving. We have a foot pump in the galley and in the head (bathroom) and we THOUGHT they were plumbed to bring water from outside the boat (sea water) for our first wash/rinse of dishes and such. I started making sure I used the foot pump a lot, to save water. Finally realized that the foot pumps actually pump water from the tank. It helps to know why I keep running so low on water, but now we have to buy jugs of water and dinghy them to our boat before we head out again.
Good news! We are making new cruiser friends all over the place, and the dinghy and outboard work great. Remind me to tell you the story of the outboard purchase from Joe soon!
The learning curve is steep, but we ARE learning!
12/27/2010
It has been a rough few days. Drug anchor twice in San Martin, big winds, high tide and a grass bottom when we thought it was sand. It was scary, but we were awake both times, and never were in any real danger, just stressful to pull up and reset our Bruce anchor in high winds. Our friend Randall had a CQR and it never moved an inch. Different bottoms require different anchoring techniques.
We both left around 8am to head for an overnighter to Cedros, hoping to arrive around 11am or so. Even though Randall’s boat is a 31 foot Mariner ketch, we should be faster than him, but he has a bigger engine, and since we are motoring much more than sailing, he quickly moves ahead of us.
We had a few challenges we had to deal with underway that put us off course, and behind our original schedule, so we did not arrive at Cedros until after dark. Not advisable to enter the anchorages, or town on Cedros in the dark, so when we arrived around 2 or 3 am the second night at sea, we “hove too” off shore. Kind of like putting the boat in idle. It just kind of drifts. I stayed up to be certain we didn’t drift too close to shore or some other hazard. That consisted of standing and sleeping occasionally waking up with a surge of water to check our surroundings. That was my Christmas eve.
The next day we motored in, set an anchor off the beach, and slept until about 11am. We were exhausted.
We are now in Cedros a very tiny pueblo, and it is Christmas Day. We are in need of fuel to continue on to Turtle Bay where we can easily fuel, and get groceries if needed. Diesel fuel is not readily available on Cedros, and it is Christmas Day. Prospects are not looking good, and tomorrow is Sunday, yikes!
Everyone says no, no Diesel, so we head over to the internet café to at least email our family. We meet Juan, who is about to close the café and reopen later, but we must look pitiful cause he allows us to go online. He and Marcus have a nice conversation between Juan’s limited English, and Marcus’s growing Spanish abilities. We explain we need fuel, and he says he will check for us, come back at 6pm. It gets dark here at 5ish, and we are not comfortable using the dinghy after dark quite yet. So starts working on it for us. He has a 125 motorcycle and he takes off, and comes back, checking out options. We are about to give up Juan’s brother Arturo and his wife show up in a car. Out comes the cell phone, here in Cedros, cell phones, and everyone has satellite TV too, and cars, seems everyone has cars and drives everywhere.
SUCCESS!!! A lady has some and Arturo will take our jerry can and go and get it. Arturo and his wife return, and we are thrilled at our Christmas miracle!
If you are ever in Cedros, make sure you go to Juan’s store/internet café. He is a wonderful guy!
Turtle Bay is not quite as we remembered it. Last time we were here was during the Baha Haha in which 150 or more sailboats descend on this sleepy little fishing village. No paved roads, but here as well, it seems everyone has a car.
It was a busy place and we scoured every little market for fresh vegetables or “greenies” as our friend Joanne called them. Businesses were booming and the 3 (that I know of) restaurants are hopping. I believe the fish tacos were $2.50 with a plate of beans.
This time it is a sleepy little town again, and there is only one restaurant open. I ask for a menu, and the least expensive thing on it is 65 pesos, which is almost $6.50 YIKES This is Mexico? Where are the $2.50 fish tacos? Apparently gone with the Haha.
I was also under the impression that showers could be had for $2. I was really needing a shower by now and the quoted price of $3.50 felt high, but oh well. Then we realized we had forgotten our towels, oh, “no problema”. So our total shower cost was $8. , because towels are extra. Well, lessons learned, but it was really nice to be clean.
We have been using a lot of water and I have been puzzled because I thought I was conserving. We have a foot pump in the galley and in the head (bathroom) and we THOUGHT they were plumbed to bring water from outside the boat (sea water) for our first wash/rinse of dishes and such. I started making sure I used the foot pump a lot, to save water. Finally realized that the foot pumps actually pump water from the tank. It helps to know why I keep running so low on water, but now we have to buy jugs of water and dinghy them to our boat before we head out again.
Good news! We are making new cruiser friends all over the place, and the dinghy and outboard work great. Remind me to tell you the story of the outboard purchase from Joe soon!
The learning curve is steep, but we ARE learning!
12/27/2010
It has been a rough few days. Drug anchor twice in San Martin, big winds, high tide and a grass bottom when we thought it was sand. It was scary, but we were awake both times, and never were in any real danger, just stressful to pull up and reset our Bruce anchor in high winds. Our friend Randall had a CQR and it never moved an inch. Different bottoms require different anchoring techniques.
We both left around 8am to head for an overnighter to Cedros, hoping to arrive around 11am or so. Even though Randall’s boat is a 31 foot Mariner ketch, we should be faster than him, but he has a bigger engine, and since we are motoring much more than sailing, he quickly moves ahead of us.
We had a few challenges we had to deal with underway that put us off course, and behind our original schedule, so we did not arrive at Cedros until after dark. Not advisable to enter the anchorages, or town on Cedros in the dark, so when we arrived around 2 or 3 am the second night at sea, we “hove too” off shore. Kind of like putting the boat in idle. It just kind of drifts. I stayed up to be certain we didn’t drift too close to shore or some other hazard. That consisted of standing and sleeping occasionally waking up with a surge of water to check our surroundings. That was my Christmas eve.
The next day we motored in, set an anchor off the beach, and slept until about 11am. We were exhausted.
We are now in Cedros a very tiny pueblo, and it is Christmas Day. We are in need of fuel to continue on to Turtle Bay where we can easily fuel, and get groceries if needed. Diesel fuel is not readily available on Cedros, and it is Christmas Day. Prospects are not looking good, and tomorrow is Sunday, yikes!
Everyone says no, no Diesel, so we head over to the internet café to at least email our family. We meet Juan, who is about to close the café and reopen later, but we must look pitiful cause he allows us to go online. He and Marcus have a nice conversation between Juan’s limited English, and Marcus’s growing Spanish abilities. We explain we need fuel, and he says he will check for us, come back at 6pm. It gets dark here at 5ish, and we are not comfortable using the dinghy after dark quite yet. So starts working on it for us. He has a 125 motorcycle and he takes off, and comes back, checking out options. We are about to give up Juan’s brother Arturo and his wife show up in a car. Out comes the cell phone, here in Cedros, cell phones, and everyone has satellite TV too, and cars, seems everyone has cars and drives everywhere.
SUCCESS!!! A lady has some and Arturo will take our jerry can and go and get it. Arturo and his wife return, and we are thrilled at our Christmas miracle!
If you are ever in Cedros, make sure you go to Juan’s store/internet café. He is a wonderful guy!
Monday, December 27, 2010
Turtle Bay
Here we are in Turtle Bay. Have had a pretty interesting trip so far, will try to put my thoughts down and share them with you tomorrow.
Resting, and enjoying a quiet anchorage.
Resting, and enjoying a quiet anchorage.
Sunday, December 19, 2010
WAGONS HO!!
A little tension is in the air as we prepare for departure. There is a little weather headed this way, and if we don't leave today, we will be sitting here for another 4-5 days. Looks good weatherwise and our friend Randall on a Mariner 31 named Murr will be buddy boating with us.
Sandwiches are made, hot water is in the hot pot, and we have a couple of alternative meals and snacks depending on the weather and sea conditions. We also have to stow everything so it will not bounce around the cabin, and double check dinghy, fuel cans, etc to be certain all is well secured.
Warm weather clothes are at the ready, and electronics are prepared. Lot of work goes into a passage. It does get easier as you get used to the drill.
The plan is to sail for about 24 hours and arrive tomorrow at San Quintin, then be in Turtle Bay by Christmas.
No communication will be available until Turtle Bay except through "SPOT"
Hasta Luego!
Sandwiches are made, hot water is in the hot pot, and we have a couple of alternative meals and snacks depending on the weather and sea conditions. We also have to stow everything so it will not bounce around the cabin, and double check dinghy, fuel cans, etc to be certain all is well secured.
Warm weather clothes are at the ready, and electronics are prepared. Lot of work goes into a passage. It does get easier as you get used to the drill.
The plan is to sail for about 24 hours and arrive tomorrow at San Quintin, then be in Turtle Bay by Christmas.
No communication will be available until Turtle Bay except through "SPOT"
Hasta Luego!
Friday, December 17, 2010
Searching, Searching
Spent the morning looking for 0 rings to seal various stuff, and also needed a diesel fuel can so off we go in search of a Napa.
Found one, and they had just what we needed at excellent prices. While there, a lady came in and sold the guys behind the counter tamales. I was very interested, as it was lunch time. I assumed they would be puerco (pork) which Marcus does not eat, but we were in luck, she had pollo and chili verde. They were the best tamales we had ever eaten!! Talk about a full service Napa!!
Later that day, we called for fuel delivery and were informed the pump was broken and they couldn't deliver fuel to us. Welcome to Mexico. We could either spend 4 hours heading north to a fuel dock, or find a place that sells diesel and carry it back to the boat. Hoping to leave tomorrow morning, we decide to head to the nearest diesel sales place. You would think the gas stations would sell it, but nope.
We had a map, and an assurance it was only about 15 min walk. We borrowed a cart and headed out. Up one block and down another, nothing we could find looked right, we asked one person then another. Apparently no one in Mexico is aware the the state owned gas stations do not sell diesel, I think it might be a state secret.
After a frustrating hour of 2 steps forward and 3 back; some uphill; we walked past a fire station. Ahah! They MUST know where it is! Sure enough, just 1 1/2 blocks away we were successfull. I tell you every little thing is an adventure in Mexico.
We will be making one more trip in the morning, with a couple of our cruiser friends in tow.
It was a frustrating afternoon, but we were invited to happy hour with our new friends, and ended on a wonderful note.
Marni, Mike, Marcus, Randall, Cyndi, Steve and Lodi
Cruisers haircut and Can you "SPOT" me?
Three years ago, we sailed on a charter boat "Western Grace" with John and Joanne from Monterey to Cabo San Lucas. In the 3 days it took to get to Ensenada, our first stop, I found my shoulder length hair to be a bit of a pain. I threw caution aside, and through a local recomendation found a hairdresser and had my hair cut. Keep in mind there is a major language barrier, Estella spoke no english, and I spoke little spanish. I was a little nervous, but she did a great job and I was very happy with her skills, as well as my new hair.
So 3 years later, I am determined to find her again, and start my cruising life with "new hair". It took quite a bit of walking, but we were successfull!! Once again, I love my hair. If I lived here, she would be my hairdresser! Did I mention, it was less than $5? Ya gotta love Mexico.
Also, want to let you know you can follow us on our travels with "SPOT" it is a great tool to locate us, and we have a means of contacting someone should we have an urgent need or even an emergency.
So 3 years later, I am determined to find her again, and start my cruising life with "new hair". It took quite a bit of walking, but we were successfull!! Once again, I love my hair. If I lived here, she would be my hairdresser! Did I mention, it was less than $5? Ya gotta love Mexico.
Also, want to let you know you can follow us on our travels with "SPOT" it is a great tool to locate us, and we have a means of contacting someone should we have an urgent need or even an emergency.
I cannot get the link to work, but see Karen's comment below, SHE has the right link!!
Off to find a hardware store!
Thursday, December 16, 2010
Pictures, we have pictures!
Where am I going to put all this stuff?
Marcus up the mast, we had to build a replacement spreader (the cross piece above Marcus)
Here is Gypsy Moon while preparing to go, looks like a marine garage sale, and this right next to $100K and up yachts!!
Marcus up the mast, we had to build a replacement spreader (the cross piece above Marcus) 
Here is Gypsy Moon while preparing to go, looks like a marine garage sale, and this right next to $100K and up yachts!!
Ensanada at last
Finally made it to Mexico!!
Tuesday got up at 4am, but still managed to get a late start, 6:30 or 7am. Monday it was sunny and warm with a nice breeze that would have made a very nice start to the trip. However, we were not ready Monday. Tuesday brought overcast skys and no wind, however the seas were fairly flat, and after an hour or so of feeling "iffy", I got my sea legs back.
Mid morning we took a reading, and we had crossed the border!! FINALLY!! We were very happy that although we took a shortcut, we had indeed made it.
Early afternoon, it became clear, that we were not going to arrive before nightfall and we really didn't want to arrive in Ensenada after dark. We decided to stop in to the Puerto Marina Salina just north of Salsipuedes. We looked and looked, and I was getting discouraged, tired, and was not looking forward to another 4 hours and navigating the Ensenada entrance at night. Finally found them, but alas, no room at the inn.
So on we go, I crawl into the v-berth and promptly fall asleep. When I woke up, we were in the Bahia Todos los Santos, yahoo!! Arrival was a little exciting.
Our first attempt at pulling into a berth I realized that the dock on the left of where we were heading had no planks!! I could not see the dock we were heading for on the other side, but sure didn't want to pull in and have no dock to jump on. Last minute, I'm saying REVERSE! It was hair raising, but at that moment I saw someone on the docks behind us and I realized he was waiting for us. So around we came, and pulled in, it was not very gracefull, but there was nosplintering wood or blood, so a success in my book.
It is good to be here, and we are taking an extra day to rest up.
Tuesday got up at 4am, but still managed to get a late start, 6:30 or 7am. Monday it was sunny and warm with a nice breeze that would have made a very nice start to the trip. However, we were not ready Monday. Tuesday brought overcast skys and no wind, however the seas were fairly flat, and after an hour or so of feeling "iffy", I got my sea legs back.
Mid morning we took a reading, and we had crossed the border!! FINALLY!! We were very happy that although we took a shortcut, we had indeed made it.
Early afternoon, it became clear, that we were not going to arrive before nightfall and we really didn't want to arrive in Ensenada after dark. We decided to stop in to the Puerto Marina Salina just north of Salsipuedes. We looked and looked, and I was getting discouraged, tired, and was not looking forward to another 4 hours and navigating the Ensenada entrance at night. Finally found them, but alas, no room at the inn.
So on we go, I crawl into the v-berth and promptly fall asleep. When I woke up, we were in the Bahia Todos los Santos, yahoo!! Arrival was a little exciting.
Our first attempt at pulling into a berth I realized that the dock on the left of where we were heading had no planks!! I could not see the dock we were heading for on the other side, but sure didn't want to pull in and have no dock to jump on. Last minute, I'm saying REVERSE! It was hair raising, but at that moment I saw someone on the docks behind us and I realized he was waiting for us. So around we came, and pulled in, it was not very gracefull, but there was nosplintering wood or blood, so a success in my book.
It is good to be here, and we are taking an extra day to rest up.
Sunday, December 12, 2010
Wednesday, December 8, 2010
My How Time Flies
We are working full time preparing to leave. Still looking for an outboard, getting a little anxious!!
Marcus reactivated the watermaker and it works!! That will be a great thing in the Sea of Cortez, which is pretty desolate with places to stop in for water being few and far between.
We went to Downwind Marine today, they have a "Cruisers raft up" on Wedsnday mornings and we met a couple that are heading south also. There are 3 boats "buddy boating" which means they travel in the same direction at about the same time. It is really nice to have someone close by to chat with, and help each other out if needed. I think it gives family and friends a little more peace of mind as well.
They are planing on leaving Sunday, which is our goal as well. Hope we can all go together.
More to come!
Marcus reactivated the watermaker and it works!! That will be a great thing in the Sea of Cortez, which is pretty desolate with places to stop in for water being few and far between.
We went to Downwind Marine today, they have a "Cruisers raft up" on Wedsnday mornings and we met a couple that are heading south also. There are 3 boats "buddy boating" which means they travel in the same direction at about the same time. It is really nice to have someone close by to chat with, and help each other out if needed. I think it gives family and friends a little more peace of mind as well.
They are planing on leaving Sunday, which is our goal as well. Hope we can all go together.
More to come!
Friday, December 3, 2010
Dinghy Days
Yahoo!! We have a dinghy! Now I won't have to swim to shore every time we find a cool spot to explore!
Seriously, a dinghy is like having a car to a cruiser, it makes life so much easier. Getting to town, bringing home the groceries, heading out for social engagement. It is a must.
It is older, but in good condition and the price was right. The seat was missing, so Greg, former owner, supplied a beautiful oak plank, planed the edges and delivered it to our marina. Nice guy! I'm sure our dinghy will not be the nicest, but we will have the most beautiful seat!
Seriously, a dinghy is like having a car to a cruiser, it makes life so much easier. Getting to town, bringing home the groceries, heading out for social engagement. It is a must.
It is older, but in good condition and the price was right. The seat was missing, so Greg, former owner, supplied a beautiful oak plank, planed the edges and delivered it to our marina. Nice guy! I'm sure our dinghy will not be the nicest, but we will have the most beautiful seat!
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